Kimberley Trip 2017 – week 7

by | Jun 12, 2017 | Road trips, The Kimberley, Western Australia

Middle Lagoon road, Cape Leveque

Thursday 8 June 2017. Day 43. A day of doing not much. Had another good talk with John and Kathleen and visiting Uncle Andrew. Very solid intelligent people.

Friday 9 June 2017. Day 44. Left our delightful eco-tent and hosts John & Kathleen and drove back to Broome Gateway Van park. That dirt road is trying. Into Broome for a stock up.

 

 

Large gap.
Hang on as we go up the 1m fall.
Dark line on rocks is the tide fall
in the last 2 hours

Saturday 10 June 2017. Day 45. Horizontal Fall trip. A huge day. Up at 4am for a 28 km drive and 5:15am pickup at the Broome visitors centre. Our little bus had 10 people (4 of whom had forgotten the day, had to be woken up and kicked up a stink all day because one of their party had not got up when woken and had been left behind). First, the drive (again) out to Kooljaman at Cape Leveque (breakfast) and on to One Arm Point (tour of Trochus shell farm) and onto the seaplane for a 30min flight to the Horizontal Falls pontoon. After watching sharks being fed and lunch (barra), we took a fast boat up Cyclone Creek (good shelter in cyclones and where the pontoon and house boats are kept in the wet) along a magnificent set of gorges being swept by 9m tides.

 

 

 

 

Horizontal Fall Seaplanes
Pontoon at Talbot Bay

Very interesting structural geology (good folds). Back to the pontoon for our helicopter ride over the falls. ($150 each and well worth it.) Back to the pontoon to join our fast boat up the falls. The ‘horizontal falls’ are a pair of consecutive narrow gaps (20m and 7m wide). Today, we had a 6.3m tide change, which means that 6.3m of water squeezed itself through those two gaps – one after the other. Paused for a minute at the top of the tide and squeezed itself back the other way. It does this twice a day, day after day at different heights. Huge whirlpools, sinks and standing waves form. Today we had an outgoing tide with a one metre drop at both gaps (which meant that it was safe for us to charge through the narrow gap).

The marketing photo shows a 5m drop which is unsafe to take the boat up – but it does look spectacular. The fast boat made several ‘laps’ up and down each gap and even parked for a while (at 8 and 13 knots) in the strength of the tide. Very good fun. Much better than jetboats on the Shotover. Then, back to Broome by seaplane. A very big day.

Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures do an excellent job at this trip. Highly recommended.

Sunday & Monday 11-12 June 2017. Days 46 & 47 Mainly prep – selecting and packing for the 16 day Gibb trip.

Shield Shrimp

When it rains across Australia’s vast inland region, temporary pools crop up all over the arid ground, giving life to a strange desert crustacean known as the shield shrimp (Triops australiensis).

Named after the formidable carapace that shields its head and upper body, T. australiensis can grow up to 7.6 cm long, and it uses its long, segmented tail and mass of 60 or so legs to propel itself through shallow water.

It also breathes through these legs – its sub-class Branchiopoda means ‘gill-legged’ – and in the females these legs bear ovisacs for carrying their tiny eggs.

Several pix in the Photo Gallery and a movie.

Acacia peuce

A rare and endangered plant. The tree grows up to 15 to 18 metres (49 to 59 ft) high, with short horizontal branches and pendulous branchlets covered in needle-like phyllodes adapted for the arid dry climate. It has a distinctive habit more similar to a sheoak or a conifer.

Although speculated to have been widespread across central Australia during wetter climates 400,000 years ago, the population is now mostly restricted to three sites, separated by the encroaching Simpson Desert. In the Northern Territory, the species is restricted to the Mac Clark (Acacia peuce) Conservation Reserve which is surrounded by a pastoral lease, Andado Station. The other two sites are near Boulia and Birdsville in Queensland. The tree is found in open arid plains that usually receive less than 150 millimetres (5.9 in) of rain per annum. They grow on shallow sand aprons overlaying gibber or clay slopes and plains and between longitudinal dunes or on alluvial flats between ephemeral watercourses.

 

Owen Springs Reserve on Hugh River

Owen Springs was a station on the Hugh River. The Hugh River flows into the Finke (when it actually flows). Both cut through the Western MacDonnell Ranges. The image above shows Owen Springs Reserve as a dot at lower right. The river it is next to is the Hugh. Hermannsburg, our next town, is near middle left edge. Hermannsburg is almost on the Finke River. You can see both Hugh and Finke Rivers cutting through sections of MacDonnell Ranges.

Palm Valley

Palm Valley is within the Finke Gorge National Park southwest of Alice Springs. Palm Valley has a smallish population of Red Cabbage Palms (Livistona mariae). The nearest related species is 850 kilometres away in Katherine NT. The average rainfall for Palm Valley is just 200 mm per year. Small pockets of semi-permanent spring-fed pools allow the unique flora and fauna (desert fish, shield shrimps tadpoles and frogs) to survive.

It had been assumed that the cabbage palms were remnants of a prehistoric time when the climate supported tropical rainforest in what is now the arid inland of Australia. Genetic analysis published in 2012 determined that Livistona mariae at Palm Valley is actually the same species as Livistona rigida from samples collected near Katherine and Mount Isa, both around 1,000 kilometres (620 mi) away. It is now thought that aboriginal people brought the palms to here from Mataranka.

Mound Springs

Mound Springs occur around the Western edge of the Great Artesian Basin and represent a natural discharge of Artesian water that was captured many hundreds of kilometers away from rain falling along the Great Dividing Range and New Guinea. This article provides details. Dalhousie is an excellent example of a mound spring.

Great Artesian Basin map Great Artesian Basin diagram