Simpson Desert Trip June 2019 – Birdsville

by | Jun 26, 2019 | Outback Spirit, Queensland

Tuesday 25 June 2019 – Day 7

Arid Air were very helpful in organising a scenic flight in 4-seater Cessna 172 VH-CBV from Birdsville at 10:30 over Goyder Lagoon and Coongie Lakes and back to Birdsville. $1,190 for the two of us. Well worth the money – a real highlight. I had the front seat for ballast. We took almost 500 pictures between us and a couple of movies.

The flight first took us south along the Diamantina which is still coming down in its flood. It has wet a fair bit of country on either side of the ‘river’ itself. This recently wetted country has quickly developed a green cover – mainly short lived ‘forbes’ and some tallish grasses. On either side of the green band is bare ground with sand dunes to the west. Many small and large dry clay pans where the water did not reach in this small flood (which did not enter the town of Birdsville itself – as it has on many previous occasions).

We flew at 700 feet along the Diamantina until the river suddenly splits into the hundreds of streamlets that make up Goyder Lagoon. We think that Goyder Lagoon is a lake that has been filled in by sediment carried down the Diamantina and the streamlets are running across the ‘delta’ that has now covers the lake.

About here we saw our only birds – a creche of pelicans. Goyder Lagoon looks like a great mass of green cut by slivers of silver – Everglades-like. We flew at 700 feet across Goyder Lagoon to where the Warburton flows out.

A slideshow of the first half of the flight is here.

From there, we flew (at 1,700 feet) SE to Coongie Lakes. The path taken was along the junction between Sturt Stony Desert and Strzelecki Deserts. Sturt Stony Desert is brown gibber flats cut about by offshoots of the Diamantina floodplain – all devoid of vegetation.

Strzelecki Desert as dunes held in place by vegetation (cane grass and spinifex) in much the same way as the Simpson. At Coongie Lakes we came back down to 700 feet.

Coongie Lakes are immense expanses of shallow water and this year mark the extent of  Cooper Creek’s flow down from Longreach. (The Diamantina, which starts at Winton, got more of Cyclone Trevor’s rain.)

No birds – maybe because no fish? Coongie Lakes are a ‘backwash’ lakes system for the Cooper which enters at their south. Hundreds of small waterways and complicated glints of silver below our path – a few cattle here and back at Goyder.

From here we flew NNW back to Birdsville at 700 feet. Almost no vegetation below us – except stabilising the occasional sand dune.

Empty claypans have no sign of salt in either of the two river systems, so the salt deposits that cause the salt in Lake Eyre is south of here. (Although some of the empty lakes we came across on the southern Simpson were saltpans, so the salt might be getting into Lake Eyre from the north rather than the east.)

Back to Birdsville where we landed at 1:07 pm. (Interesting that two other aircraft gave their landing time as 1:07 pm, so with no control tower at Birdsville, there was a bit of negotiation in the air.)

A slideshow of the second half of the flight is here.

A short movie of the second part of the fight is here. (I included the landing to show how dry it is around Birdsville.)

After dinner tonight we joined Martin (a semi local) for a talk on the stars. Very general and very interesting. How to find south from the Southern Cross; rotation of the sky at night; what of the Southern Cross can be seen at various latitudes in Australia (Hobart v Melbourne v Sydney v Brisbane v Rockhampton); visible planets (Jupiter and Saturn); constellations (Scorpio, Leo, Libra, Sagitarius); emu in the sky. Martin is self taught from his own observations and tuning into what people are interested in. $15 per person and worth it. Recommended.

Coongie Lakes with Cooper Creek entry
Excellent photo by Helen. I like the light, reflections and ripples in the lake.

 

Shield Shrimp

When it rains across Australia’s vast inland region, temporary pools crop up all over the arid ground, giving life to a strange desert crustacean known as the shield shrimp (Triops australiensis).

Named after the formidable carapace that shields its head and upper body, T. australiensis can grow up to 7.6 cm long, and it uses its long, segmented tail and mass of 60 or so legs to propel itself through shallow water.

It also breathes through these legs – its sub-class Branchiopoda means ‘gill-legged’ – and in the females these legs bear ovisacs for carrying their tiny eggs.

Several pix in the Photo Gallery and a movie.

Acacia peuce

A rare and endangered plant. The tree grows up to 15 to 18 metres (49 to 59 ft) high, with short horizontal branches and pendulous branchlets covered in needle-like phyllodes adapted for the arid dry climate. It has a distinctive habit more similar to a sheoak or a conifer.

Although speculated to have been widespread across central Australia during wetter climates 400,000 years ago, the population is now mostly restricted to three sites, separated by the encroaching Simpson Desert. In the Northern Territory, the species is restricted to the Mac Clark (Acacia peuce) Conservation Reserve which is surrounded by a pastoral lease, Andado Station. The other two sites are near Boulia and Birdsville in Queensland. The tree is found in open arid plains that usually receive less than 150 millimetres (5.9 in) of rain per annum. They grow on shallow sand aprons overlaying gibber or clay slopes and plains and between longitudinal dunes or on alluvial flats between ephemeral watercourses.

 

Owen Springs Reserve on Hugh River

Owen Springs was a station on the Hugh River. The Hugh River flows into the Finke (when it actually flows). Both cut through the Western MacDonnell Ranges. The image above shows Owen Springs Reserve as a dot at lower right. The river it is next to is the Hugh. Hermannsburg, our next town, is near middle left edge. Hermannsburg is almost on the Finke River. You can see both Hugh and Finke Rivers cutting through sections of MacDonnell Ranges.

Palm Valley

Palm Valley is within the Finke Gorge National Park southwest of Alice Springs. Palm Valley has a smallish population of Red Cabbage Palms (Livistona mariae). The nearest related species is 850 kilometres away in Katherine NT. The average rainfall for Palm Valley is just 200 mm per year. Small pockets of semi-permanent spring-fed pools allow the unique flora and fauna (desert fish, shield shrimps tadpoles and frogs) to survive.

It had been assumed that the cabbage palms were remnants of a prehistoric time when the climate supported tropical rainforest in what is now the arid inland of Australia. Genetic analysis published in 2012 determined that Livistona mariae at Palm Valley is actually the same species as Livistona rigida from samples collected near Katherine and Mount Isa, both around 1,000 kilometres (620 mi) away. It is now thought that aboriginal people brought the palms to here from Mataranka.

Mound Springs

Mound Springs occur around the Western edge of the Great Artesian Basin and represent a natural discharge of Artesian water that was captured many hundreds of kilometers away from rain falling along the Great Dividing Range and New Guinea. This article provides details. Dalhousie is an excellent example of a mound spring.

Great Artesian Basin map Great Artesian Basin diagram