France Road Trip – week 8 – Dinan

by | May 29, 2016 | Britany, France, Road trips

Saturday 28 May. Day 51. Drove to Dinan. Another delightful apartment in yet another delightful old city/town. Autoroute driving almost all the way – mostly at 130km/hr which made the 110 km/hr patches feel very slow. Two visits to the excellent bakery next door to us at Amboise this morning and said farewell to the friendly owner who (despite having no English) had put up with and helped me with my very poor French.

Dinan. We are right in the old, old town in, again, a classified building up two flights of very narrow stairs. We followed the gps up through local streets (route barre, local traffic only) to a small parking lot in the centre of the old town 50 metres from our door. The town is delightful. I like it.

Sunday 29 May. Day 52. We woke to the Tour de Rance winding its way through the town complete with Caravanne throwing trinkets and a fun ride. (Dinan is in the Rance Valley.) We went for a short drive (in distance but not in time) to Cap Fernel just west of here that juts into the Channel. Good stacks with sea-birds. Guillemots.

Brittany is a joyous place. The Brittagnans like to laugh and joke. Dour is not a word that would/could/should be applied. (Unlike the Basques.) I have the impression that the Brittagnans have attached themselves to France to the benefit of both – but the Brittagnans are not really French, they are just part of France. Independent, friendly, worldly, twinkle eyed. A good place.
France and foreigners. Speak French no matter how badly and the French will hang in there with you. You are making an effort. Maybe you will get lucky and will be gently corrected. Make no effort with French and most will be polite (I still have not found a rude Frenchman or woman.) I think the French don’t like the English much (understandably as most are rude – could be mutual) – nor the yanks (incredibly rude). I do not doubt that the rudeness of the poms and yanks will unearth a little rudeness in return. Maybe that is why both those groups talk about ‘rude French’.

Monday 30 May. Day 53. I am mixed up. I have Saint Malo and Mont Saint Michel mixed in my head. Today after reading about Mont Saint Michel, I typed St Malo into the GPS and we went there. Dope. Anyway, Mont Saint Michel is a very nice village perched on its rock in the bay. Quite an elaborate parking and bus shuttle setup to keep tourists flocking in while they clear the bay of silt. Ate lunch on a  terrace on the ramparts. Mont Saint Michel must be horrendous in summer with the full tide of tourists.

 

 

 

Mont Saint Michel mud flats

Mont Saint Michel mud flats

Tuesday 31 May. Day 53. Today we drove to the furtherest west point in France, out beyond Brest, to the old northern fortifications, lighthouse and abbey (with Camino de Compestella signs on its doors – just where does that walk not start?). A two hour drive from here. Lunch at the delightful port village of Le Conquet. Then, the long drive back to Dinan. Quite a drive. We did get fuel on the way back, so that should see us back to Paris. The gauge says we have 1,260 km of fuel on board. This diesel C4 gets excellent fuel economy.

Thursday 2 June. Day 55. A drive to Cancale for lunch. Cancale is just north of here on the coast and is famous for its oysters. The port (Le Port) at Cancale has 30+ restaurants lined up along the bay. Impossible to make an informed choice, so based on the rules of competition, we chose the nearest with a green door. Excellent. We had the seafood platter for 2 that covered the table. Worth the drive. A walk along the port to the close in oyster beds after lunch. While we were eating, every few minutes yet another tractor went past pulling more oyster racks. From here, oyster go to Paris where they are looked for on Fridays and are extremely popular.

 

Our house at Dinan

Brittany. This peninsular is a real surprise and a delight. Prosperous. The rest of France tends to throw off at the Bretons as a bit slow. Well, slow is winning over big chunks of rural France. Prosperous towns and well tendered farms. Lots of small light industry. We tend to judge a place by if it is keeping their kids. Here in Brittany, the kids are staying. There is enough income, entertainment and demand for their skills to keep them here. (Luberon, Pay Basque, Gers, Lot have lost their kids a generation or more ago.)

Shield Shrimp

When it rains across Australia’s vast inland region, temporary pools crop up all over the arid ground, giving life to a strange desert crustacean known as the shield shrimp (Triops australiensis).

Named after the formidable carapace that shields its head and upper body, T. australiensis can grow up to 7.6 cm long, and it uses its long, segmented tail and mass of 60 or so legs to propel itself through shallow water.

It also breathes through these legs – its sub-class Branchiopoda means ‘gill-legged’ – and in the females these legs bear ovisacs for carrying their tiny eggs.

Several pix in the Photo Gallery and a movie.

Acacia peuce

A rare and endangered plant. The tree grows up to 15 to 18 metres (49 to 59 ft) high, with short horizontal branches and pendulous branchlets covered in needle-like phyllodes adapted for the arid dry climate. It has a distinctive habit more similar to a sheoak or a conifer.

Although speculated to have been widespread across central Australia during wetter climates 400,000 years ago, the population is now mostly restricted to three sites, separated by the encroaching Simpson Desert. In the Northern Territory, the species is restricted to the Mac Clark (Acacia peuce) Conservation Reserve which is surrounded by a pastoral lease, Andado Station. The other two sites are near Boulia and Birdsville in Queensland. The tree is found in open arid plains that usually receive less than 150 millimetres (5.9 in) of rain per annum. They grow on shallow sand aprons overlaying gibber or clay slopes and plains and between longitudinal dunes or on alluvial flats between ephemeral watercourses.

 

Owen Springs Reserve on Hugh River

Owen Springs was a station on the Hugh River. The Hugh River flows into the Finke (when it actually flows). Both cut through the Western MacDonnell Ranges. The image above shows Owen Springs Reserve as a dot at lower right. The river it is next to is the Hugh. Hermannsburg, our next town, is near middle left edge. Hermannsburg is almost on the Finke River. You can see both Hugh and Finke Rivers cutting through sections of MacDonnell Ranges.

Palm Valley

Palm Valley is within the Finke Gorge National Park southwest of Alice Springs. Palm Valley has a smallish population of Red Cabbage Palms (Livistona mariae). The nearest related species is 850 kilometres away in Katherine NT. The average rainfall for Palm Valley is just 200 mm per year. Small pockets of semi-permanent spring-fed pools allow the unique flora and fauna (desert fish, shield shrimps tadpoles and frogs) to survive.

It had been assumed that the cabbage palms were remnants of a prehistoric time when the climate supported tropical rainforest in what is now the arid inland of Australia. Genetic analysis published in 2012 determined that Livistona mariae at Palm Valley is actually the same species as Livistona rigida from samples collected near Katherine and Mount Isa, both around 1,000 kilometres (620 mi) away. It is now thought that aboriginal people brought the palms to here from Mataranka.

Mound Springs

Mound Springs occur around the Western edge of the Great Artesian Basin and represent a natural discharge of Artesian water that was captured many hundreds of kilometers away from rain falling along the Great Dividing Range and New Guinea. This article provides details. Dalhousie is an excellent example of a mound spring.

Great Artesian Basin map Great Artesian Basin diagram